Timber cladding goes green in a very particular way. The faces of the boards might look almost clean, while every joint, overlap and shadow line carries a dark stripe of growth. That is because timber holds moisture exactly where two boards meet, and anything that sits wet for long enough in a South West winter will grow something. The instinct is to hire a pressure washer and blast it off. On softwood in particular, that is the one thing you should not do.
Why pressure is the wrong tool for softwood
Softwood has soft summer growth between harder rings. A pressure jet cuts the soft wood away faster than the hard, leaving a furry, ridged surface where the grain has been raised. That raised grain looks worse than the growth did, holds even more moisture, and gives the next colony of algae a perfect foothold. It can also force water behind the boards and strip any stain or oil finish in patches. Once the grain is raised there is no rinsing it flat again; it needs sanding. So on timber cladding we avoid pressure entirely.
This guide sits under our Wall Cleaning & Softwash work, covering 20-mile radius of Plymouth.
What we use instead
Cladding takes a weaker treatment mix than render or masonry, applied at low pressure so the product lands on the boards rather than being driven into them. The treatment is given time to work on the growth, then the surface is gently rinsed. It is the same softwash principle we use on walls, turned down to suit a material that is far easier to damage. Where growth is heavy and established, the honest answer is sometimes that it lightens further over the following weeks as the dead growth weathers away, rather than disappearing in one afternoon.
Where the growth actually starts
Look at the bottom edge of each board, the overlap on shiplap or feather-edge, and any horizontal trim or window sill that catches run-off. Those are the permanently damp lines. North-facing elevations, cladding near hedges or trees, and boards close to the ground where splash-back keeps them wet will always go first. Understanding that tells you something useful about maintenance: the aim is to keep those damp lines from establishing, not to scrub whole faces that were never the problem.
Protecting what is around it
Timber cladding is often next to planting, decking or a doorstep, and a treatment that is fine on a board is not something you want pooling on a lawn. Timber decking or a doorstep directly under the work is covered rather than rinsed afterwards, and planting is protected before anything is applied. If there are areas of cladding or timber detail you would rather we left alone, for example a newly stained section or a feature board, tell us at quoting stage so it is written into the scope.
Treated, stained and painted boards
Stained or oiled boards are cleaned with the same gentle approach, but a clean will show up any finish that has already failed: patches that were protected by the dirt suddenly look pale next to bare timber. That is worth knowing if you are planning to re-stain, because cleaning first gives the new finish a sound surface to bond to. Painted boards behave more like painted render and tolerate the treatment well, though flaking paint will lift if it was already loose.
Composite and uPVC are different jobs
Not every clad wall is timber. Composite boards and uPVC cladding look similar from the road but behave differently, and each has its own guide on this site. If you are not sure which you have, a close-up photograph of a board end usually settles it.
Questions we get on this
- Is timber cladding treated the same way as render?
- No. Cladding takes a weaker mix, and pressure is avoided entirely because it raises the grain.
- Will it look clean the same day?
- Lighter growth rinses away; heavier growth can continue to fade over the following weeks as it dies back.
- Can I just use a garden pressure washer?
- On softwood we would advise against it. Raised grain needs sanding to fix and holds moisture that brings growth back faster.
- Should I clean before re-staining?
- Yes. A clean removes the growth and dirt the new finish would otherwise sit on, and shows you where the old finish has failed.
Related reading
- Shopfronts and small commercial premises
- Care homes, schools and community buildings
- Older and period properties: a conservative approach
- Garden walls, steps and paths
